So I get a fair amount of crap from my lovely wife about my affinity for a certain cocktail: the black Manhattan. This is a drink I make at home (I’m enjoying one as I write this post actually) and order out whenever I get a chance (or remember). It’s also true that I have taught several bartenders across the country how to make this drink, simply because they weren’t familiar with it. That doesn’t make me special, it makes me a fan of the drink! So, how did this love affair with a particular libation come to be, and how can one do it at home? So glad you asked because I’m ready to share!
My first experience with the black Manhattan was two years ago in Denver. The location was Matsuhisa, a to die for sushi joint that is part of the Nobu Matsuhisa’s group of restaurants (yes, that Nobu). If you’re in Denver and are craving sushi, make your reservation now. I’ll wait.
So I was the first in my party to arrive, so I did what any self respecting traveler would do, I headed to the bar. There I perused the menu and settled on the “New Brooklyn.” My bartender informed me that the cocktail was better known as the Black Manhattan. One sip and I was hooked. Be sure to order one when you get there and get hooked as well.
So after several cocktails, I had a new favorite. Obviously my intention was to bring this back home and enjoy it out and about, as well as while sitting on my couch. A few weeks later it was off to a local haunt to meet some clients and my lovely bride. Of course I ordered a Black Manhattan, but I was met with a puzzled look. Education time my friend! After a quick lesson and insisting that the bartender try the drink, a new favorite was available (Addams Tavern in Westfield NJ now makes an excellent Black Manhattan). Ever since I have been spreading the good word of this cocktail, much to my wife’s embarrassment!
So what is this lovely drink? It’s quite simple and only requires one addition to a well stocked home bar. Rye is the preferred base, but you can certainly use bourbon. I enjoy it with Bulliet or Angel’s Envy Rye. The second ingredient is Averna, a Sicilian liqueur that replaces the sweet vermouth that traditionally makes up a Manhattan. Two parts rye, one part Averna. A few shakes of angastora bitters and an orange peel, and you have a masterpiece on your hands (and in your glass). I typically enjoy mine with a large cube, but you can certainly enjoy it up if that’s your style. Please, for the love of all things good and holy, try it. Let me know what you think, and if you’ve become completely obsessed with it, to the point of annoying your spouse. Only then have you truly arrrived. Now to finish my drink…
Turtle + the Wolf
It started with a bomb cyclone, followed right behind by a polar vortex. In other words, it was winter in New Jersey, so suck it up buttercup. We committed to a monthly dining experience with my wife’s cousin and her husband, and this was the maiden voyage of this culinary adventure. With much fanfare and anticipation, we made our way to Upper Montclair for our first experience with a two year old gem, Turtle + the Wolf. The culmination of chef Lauren Hirschberg’s lifelong dream, the setting was perfect for the evening. The warm lighting and inviting staff left the chill of the arctic air outside far behind. Dark wood with an industrial feel, lit primarily by the open kitchen to our right. Audible under the hum of a lively crowd was music that would make Alt Nation on SiriusXM proud. Our table was at the mid point of the long narrow restaurant, perfectly situated for the meal to come.
Our server, Ben, met us with a smile, opened our wine, and gave us a minute to peruse the menu. This is not an extensive menu, but that is a thing of beauty. If you do it right, you don’t need endless options. Also, as a BYOB, the wine list started at home, and it was a selection we would not have otherwise found on a wine list anywhere. This is a strong nod and shameless plug for our friends at Vincent Arroyo Winery, and their 2014 Winemaker’s Reserve Petit Sarah. Make your way to Calistoga and get acquainted with them now.
Now, there are restaurants who have daily specials, or the catch of the day, but I can’t say I’ve seen the Berkshire Pork selection of the day. Pork equals happiness, so sure, I’m in! What, pray tell, is the pork of the day? Ben revealed that today it was pork belly, and all was right in the world. Additionally, there was a sea bass crudo, as an alternative to the yellow tail crudo on the regular menu. A few more minutes, plenty of laughs, and we were ready to order. One of the lessons we teach my children is that we try new things. Looking at the appetizers, that was necessary for all involved. Ordering for the table is a pleasure, and this was no exception. The sea bass crudo, chicken liver mousse, seared fois gras, and the steak tartar made the cut. Upon arrival, these appetizers clearly stole the show. The sea bass was a clean and refreshing departure from the other rich dishes, topped with sliced jalapeños and a citrus and oil drizzle. The chicken liver mousse was firm to slice, but spread on the accompanying crostini with ease, accented by a mustard seed relish. Topped with a perfectly placed egg yolk, the steak tartar was creamy and delicious. And, oh, the fois gras! Seared to perfection, with a concord grape reduction and roasted peanuts. Our wine cut the richness perfectly, with not a single morsel remaining on any of the plates. This was a glorious beginning!
For our entree selections, we cast another wide net. Clearly the pork belly had to happen, as did the duck pot pie (DUCK.POT.PIE), short ribs, and the roasted butternut squash. There was nothing low calorie about this meal (well, maybe the squash) but with a proper glass of wine, who’s going to complain? All were cooked perfectly. For me, the pork belly was a contrast within itself. Crispy on the outside (I mean like cracker crispy) and tender and juicy below the perfect crust. The duck pot pie, tucked inside a pillow of pastry, was creamy and rich (thank you duck heart gravy). The short ribs fell off the bone and the accompanying potato purée made each bite a symphony of flavor. The squash was also tender and flavorful. Now, these meals were delightful, however we had one consistent observation. Each could have been enhanced with some salt. The flavors were begging for a punch, to jump off the plate and explode. A heavier hand with the salt would have put them over the top. No one left disappointed however.
Ben was a perfect host, great personality and just enough attention paid to our table. He arrived with dessert menus in hand, and clearly this was not a crowd who knew how to say no. We went with the appetizer approach and selected an assortment of treats. We limited it to three selections; the Zeppole with fig preserves, Maple pot au creme, and the Chocolate – Peanut Butter Tart. Thank God for coffee, because these desserts were decadent! The zeppole were surprisingly light, the others not so much. This is not a complaint. After our plates were cleared, we lingered and talked, never feeling rushed. It was another excellent culinary experience with wonderful ambiance. On an otherwise cold and dark winter night, Turtle + the Wolf provided a memorably warm experience.
Ever since we started this adventure, we’ve wanted to pound the pavement from a local perspective. A little visit to Facebook, and a post from the Cranford Patch, revealed a golden opportunity. A mere two miles from us was a new venture in day two of their soft opening. We wanted to grab a cocktail anyway that afternoon, so off we went to Cranford NJ. Were this a summer day, we could have easily walked, but it’s December and it was cold, so the five-minute drive was our option. As luck would have it, there was a spot directly in front of our destination. Behold, Yale Terrace Brewery.
The downtown brewery and tasting room is a welcome addition to Cranford. Among the countless restaurants, bars, coffee shops, Yale Terrace Brewery is a special treat, and kudos to the town for helping to make this happen. Other towns in the area should take note (Westfield, I’m looking at you). From outside you could see the stark green wall by the bar, and the accent walls (which we learned were created entirely of pallets that one of the owners broke down and finished himself), and a bustling crowd enjoying what we were about to become part of.
We were greeted warmly upon entry by the crew, as well as by the patrons who were there before us. We grabbed two seats at the hand crafted bar and were asked the standard question upon entering a brewery in the state of NJ, “would you like to take a tour?” Obviously the answer is yes, because not only is it interesting to learn the brewing process, but to hear the story truly relays the passion of the brewers themselves. Tom guided us to the back of the brewery, where a single still sat. He explained the process and the still they used that actually submerged the grain in a large metal device, best described as “a really big tea bag.” He also explained how most of the downstairs is taken up by the various beers in different stages of the brewing process. You could see the excitement in Tom’s voice and demeanor, this was his pride and joy.
Back to our seats at the bar (which had plugs, USB ports and hooks under the bar in front of our seats), and the next big question, “what would you like?” Being enthusiasts for all things food and drink, we made the obvious choice: everything! As luck would have it, one can order a flight of four beers, so we ordered two flights and selected virtually everything available from the blackboard at the center of the bar on the green wall. Our bartenders, Nick and Scott, were fantastic, great conversationalist and knowledgeable about the product. They also had a great dynamic between the two of them and worked well with us to coordinate our selections. We were presented with two boards and eight glasses, and the tasting began:
- #19 Yale Quad – Delicious, with more bite than the IPA’s (Kim’s note: yummy, a touch sour)
- #26 Yale Oatmeal Stout – Wonderful rich stout (Kim’s note: Ok, didn’t feel “stouty” enough)
- #24 Yale Imperial IPA – Great smooth beer, not overly hoppy (Kim’s note: Not my favorite)
- #19 Yale Pale Ale – Very light and drinkable (Kim’s note: Eh.)
- #9 Wellington Raspberry Sour – The only sour we’ve ever enjoyed
- #8 Borden Bourbon Espresso Stout – We so wanted to love it, but espresso beers have that bite of coffee that makes it almost tart
- #161 Main IPA – My wife’s favorite, again not too hoppy
- #132 Euclid Saison – another clean crisp beer, a good representation of a saison. (Kim’s note: Just OK.)
Nick and Scott took a genuine interest in our opinions of the beers we tried, and we were honest with them. My wife enjoyed the 161 Main IPA whereas I favored the Oatmeal Stout. We were both surprised by the Wellington Raspberry Sour, as neither of us are sour fans, but this was quite pleasing. We then had a robust discussion about the Borden Bourbon Espresso Stout. We shared our passion for such an idea (being fans of both bourbon and espresso) but were consistently disappointed by the execution, no matter where we’ve tried similar beers. We talked about ways to cut the inherent bitterness that espresso has, especially in a beer, and figure the guys at Yale Terrace will figure it out.
As we sat enjoying our brews, we observed patrons from all walks of life. Friends of the brewery, businessmen stopping in before heading home, a family of four with their dinner from Vinnie’s Pizza & Pasta which is conveniently located next door to the brewery, friends stopping in for a drink before a movie across the street, and the newlyweds reviewing the whole scene (that’s us). A true cross-section of this suburban New Jersey town.
As we moved on in our selections (my bride had the Yale Quad, while I opted for the Oatmeal Stout) we began a conversation with Pete, who with Tom and Vinnie (the owner of the pizzeria next door) made up the ownership group of Yale Terrace. Pete spent what felt like an hour with us, and the conversation was amazing as we learned about the home brewing and blind taste tests he and Tom would run with friends, the challenging regulatory landscape for breweries, and a tremendous history of brewing in New Jersey. His vision was to create a local brewery, much like those that existed prior to prohibition and the power of large breweries and distributors.
We also learned their history, from growing up in West Orange, to the origins of the names of their beers, each an address of relevance from their pasts. Soon the walls will include the back stories of these addresses turned beers, and we can’t wait to return to learn more. Each of the owners has a full-time job, but it’s clear this is their collective passion. That passion is reflected in the quality of the product and the atmosphere throughout the brewery. This is a fun, comfortable and approachable place, certainly worth the stop before we headed out for dinner. There will be many return trips, and the rotating taps will make it a new adventure each time, but the welcoming atmosphere makes this a place you want to return to soon and often.
Beating the snow down the Garden State Parkway, we arrived at The Mission Inn for our 3rd Annual Cape May Christmas Trip, and were greeted by Wendy Collins, one of the Inn’s two owners. She welcomed us with a big smile on her face, saying “uh oh, here comes trouble” and hugged us like we were family. Shortly after we stepped inside and into the cozy living room, where there was a warm fire in the fireplace and a large Christmas tree next to it, Laura Shaddock, the Inn’s second owner came out to greet us. Again, big, warm, welcoming hugs all around. We all chatted for a little bit, catching up on the year’s events, before we went to our respective rooms to settle in and get ready for the “Afternoon Refreshments” (code: Happy Hour) that are served daily, from 4-5pm.
Nick and I headed up to the 2nd floor and to our room, the San Luis Rey de Francis. Styled after the California Spanish Missions, The Mission Inn is altogether different from the Victorian B&B’s known to Cape May. I actually had never stayed at a B&B prior to our 1st Cape May Christmas Trip in 2015. I’ve never considered myself a B&B kind of girl — they always seemed sort of stuffy to me. I pictured old Victorian homes, with a smell of must/nursing home in the air; fragile little tchotchkes as far as the eye can see; and the worst part – sharing meals (and God forbid, bathrooms) with strangers. Not my scene. Like, at all. The Mission Inn could not be further from this description. For starters, walk into the Inn and Laura and Wendy make you feel immediately like you are at home. There are three common rooms, including a veranda where you can enjoy breakfast or relax during the warmer months. There is also a dining room, which is another seating option for the tasty breakfast that you will enjoy during your stay. There is also the aforementioned living room with the fireplace, and then a large room that serves as both a living room/eat in kitchenette. In this last common room, there is a large table which serves as an additional option for breakfast, as well as several couches, another fireplace, a tv/dvd and a coffee table with a large tray featuring a massive jigsaw puzzle that changes with the season. This year’s puzzle was a 3D Santa Claus that had our little group working diligently during various free points during our stay. (Spoiler alert: We finished the puzzle!). In the kitchenette, you’ll find a refrigerator stocked with some non-alcoholic beverages like lemonade, but also some wine, as well as a selection of beers some of which are local to Cape May. Laura in particular is a beer aficionado, and has a particular fancy for sour beers. It’s always worth it to try one that she has in the fridge. You’ll also find an endless selection of teas, coffee, hot chocolate and the piece de resistance, a cookie jar that holds a never ending supply of Chef Leslie’s oatmeal and cranberry (or in some instances, chocolate chip) cookies. They are addicting and the jar is ALWAYS full. Consider yourself warned. As you move to the bedrooms, there are 8 in total; 4 upstairs and 4 downstairs. Each is modeled after a different mission and you only need to look above the entrance to your room to see the hand painted sign that displays the name of the mission after which your room has been designed. The paintings on the walls transport you to the mission in California. The San Luis Rey, for instance, has a mural on the ceiling that represents the partially collapsed Mission Chapel’s domed ceiling. The headboard in each room is handcrafted and designed to reflect the front elevation of the mission. There is a fireplace in each room, a king size bed with probably the most comfortable mattress that I’ve ever slept on and radiant heat in the bathroom, which is so very welcomed when stepping out of the shower. Seriously, it’s hard to not just hole up in your room for the entirety of your stay. However, if you did that then you wouldn’t enjoy the delights that are the “Afternoon Refreshments” (again, code for Happy Hour!), or the breakfasts that are served from 8-9:30am each morning. And oh, the breakfasts. They are not to be missed, and given that there is a 2 night minimum stay, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to enjoy them!
Nick and I like to really toe the line when it comes to our breakfast arrival. In fact, Wendy or Laura will typically send us off to bed (or more commonly leave us to put themselves to bed) saying, “So, we’ll see you at 9:29 tomorrow?”. Seriously though, did I mention the beds? They are just so comfy, it’s hard to leave them. Whenever you happen to make your way to breakfast, whether it’s 8:01 or 9:29, no sooner are you seated at the table, and in comes Laura and/or Wendy with a hot pot of coffee and a selection of juice for your choosing. By juice, we’re not talking plain OJ here, people. How about cranberry-pomegranate? Or blueberry-apple? The list goes on and on, and I have to be honest, sometimes I don’t want any but I have Laura or Wendy repeat the list for my own personal entertainment. Fortunately, they haven’t caught on to me just yet. Very shortly thereafter, in comes Chef Leslie with a plate of fruit so elegantly designed, you almost hate to eat it. Almost. During the first breakfast of our stay, we enjoyed a quarter of a pineapple, with the pieces carved out and resting in their rind. Also, some strawberries and a magnificent vanilla-y yogurt concoction for dipping. Our second breakfast included a poached pear, with dried cranberries sprinkled atop and again a yogurt-y goodness alongside. Once you’ve quite finished your fruit, your plate is cleared and in comes the main feature. We enjoyed an egg frittata over an asparagus purée with a roasted red pepper drizzle. It was accompanied by a blueberry breakfast sausage and a chocolate chip muffin. Delightfully savory, with a touch of sweet. The muffin was like a dessert – and I ask you, who doesn’t want dessert with breakfast? Dessert should be a requirement with every meal, no matter the time of day. Breakfast, day two, was french toast stuffed with strawberries and cream, and topped with powdered sugar, pomegranate perils and an orange slice. The accompaniment was bacon. Talk about dessert for breakfast – this main event was deliciously sweet, with a touch of savory. Two very different breakfasts, both with balanced flavors, an artistic touch and the perfect fuel before a day about town.
You’ll find that after a breakfast like the ones Chef Leslie features, you plan your day around being back at the Inn for Afternoon Refreshments, which begins at 4pm, daily. It is one of the many opportunities that you’ll have to spend time with Wendy and Laura, as well as socializing with other guests (if that’s your thing). It’s also another opportunity to enjoy some tasty little bites from Chef Leslie. Her deviled eggs are not to be missed, and they are sure to be featured at least once during your two night stay. We also enjoyed Leslie’s Famous Chili, which was perfect after a cold day, a spicy hummus, spinach dip, a cheese medley, antipasto – all delights that you would expect to find featured on any happy hour menu. Given our affinity for all things booze (we are Fat, Drunk and Fancy after all), we bring several bottles of wine to enjoy during Afternoon Refreshments, as well as a bottle of brown liquor for after dinner drinks. If you’re so lucky, and typically we always are, Wendy and Laura may even join you for a drink after you return from your dinner to catch up on your day and whatever other topics come about.
The breakfasts, the happy hour spread, the jigsaw puzzle, the cozy beds are all perfectly wonderful reasons to visit The Mission Inn. But it is Wendy, Laura and the feeling of home that will have you booking your next visit before your current visit is over, missing the Inn before you have even left Cape May, and have you finding yourself looking for reasons to sneak a weekend or a mini vacation in before too much time has gone by. Sharing the experience with whomever you consider to be your family only enhances the experience, and before the end of your stay, you will undoubtedly be adding Wendy and Laura to those who you call family, and we at Fat, Drunk and Fancy call, “famiglia”.
*disclaimer: If you happen to find yourself at the Inn during our yearly Christmas pilgrimage, all I can say is, #sorrynotsorry.